144 posts in this topic

Thanks abvolt :)

 

Using a lot of fittings for the R4BE and 480 XT's has helped hide the 'loop' (mostly fittings so can't call it that!). The rad port at the back is fittings to go down the recess of the case towards the pump, got tubing to cover the distance but used angled fittings as the tube doesn't bend more than say 60 degrees before starting to kink. And with the 24-pin ATX power cable connected you can see how great it looks out the box and why I decided not to send the cables off for braiding. People normally have worse coloured stock cables than these. If I was to do it at a later date, it would be because I wanted a certain colour scheme and added flexibility.

 

More photos (combined some to fit them all in)....

 

Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro 1400 RPM PL2 120mm Fan 3-Pin (continued)

 

DdDoo1Ll.jpg QpeXGAvl.jpg

 

FZIGikgl.jpg

 

As I mentioned before, it does comes with a rubber fan gasket too which I never used and isn't pictured above. Popped them into a spare plastic bag. The items I used are pictured above. Because I couldn't source enough 30mm M3 screws in time I had to use the metal washers as the screw heads are narrow. Then used the rubber sleeves to take more length from the screw and also protect the case from damage and vibrations. Did cross my mind to cut the screws but wasn't sure how I accurately cut off 5mm straight. Could go into how I managed to fix the rad and fans to case but know you lot want more photos instead ;)

 

0mVQWhxl.jpg

 

Onto the rad and fitting the fans on the 480 XTs, all XT's are EOL. I find that very strange as Slovenia-based EK are promoting the inferior PE rather than improving the XT design as that leaves them wide open to competitors including another German company (reference to fans being German) Alphacool. Anyway the end rad image is set up to direct fans exhausting through the roof and attached the four fans to 2 fan splitters, the FC8 is very capable of handling a couple of fans per channel.

 

Next lot of images cover the 900D, fitting the rads, and assembly of dual pump.

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indeed it does look clean ! :) . If i recall you said that you will not be buying EK-monarch ? . Does tha gasket really help a lot i mean in terms of performance gain compare to someone not using them.

As a guess , the SB will go to GPU?

Regards

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Thanks Omega :)

 

Not buying any RAM heatsinks simply because there is no need to worry about RAM temps at all and RAM LEDs are pretty good.

The gasket helps retain the static pressure that would otherwise leak out from the sides and improve cooling performance. Needed to use it because the screws were too long even though when you tightening the screws it naturally compresses the gaskets. Kept a check on that screws didn't touch the rad tubes, this won't be a worry for those with 30mm M3 screws, if you are securing the rad to the case you may need 32mm and you should ensure the heads are bigger than mine!

 

Yes the SB is going to GPU then down to rad then pump. The rad outlet will run along the top of the rad, under the shelf that the pump rests on and up the other side. I know right now that are bits that I won't be 100% happy with but I need to continue moving along.

 

Received my EK 780 Ti Classified V2 backplate today along with EK 250 res and W8.1 Pro 64-bit. Bought W8.1 Pro now cos the price had gone up by £5 and managed to buy from a store that didn't increase it yet. Been playing about with positioning the dual pump and res and got it in place with left over gasket padding from above :lol:. I know I can do better and will get to diy store tomorrow and check out some brackets to try and avoid this being a pain in the ass. Also expecting my valve from another shop but it's one of the smaller shops and it takes them an ages to just send the damn parcel out. Can't leak test without it and if it's posted next week I won't get til the weekend because I'm away for a few days.

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I really like the 90's you're using on the cpu block I've been looking for some where did you get them. Thanks

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Abvolt, the Bitspower double and triple rotary's are from Overclockers UK, they ship worldwide.

 

The order I had with a small retailer for the Valve I cancelled, they had my order for nearly a fortnight and done sod all sending it out. Redid the order with OCUK and they are sending it out next week. Will be on holiday until Thursday and until then here's the current setup. Loop wise only need to fit block to GPU, add valve to bottom loop next week then leak test. The tubing has been treated with white vinegar to make it a bit clearer then flushed with tap water under pressure. Would have been done before February was over, not long now.

 

Latest photos of loop, no cable management is done, etc before leak testing. The green tubing is all you see on the bottom and from the GPU and ONLY with the side panel off.

 

hWA18NLl.jpg

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Here's my little surprise... been really busy so far this year so with that and with umpteen delays I'd thought I'd treat myself and get the fast system I've wanted and say goodbye to mechanical

 

6DJKzzel.jpg

 

Should go nicely with these which I've had since release, these are the primaries @ 40GB daily whereas EVOs are 20GB daily

 

csSmw5Vl.jpg

 

Tease for rest of photos later today (or tomorrow)

 

LhJQ5SUl.jpg

 

Will post more photos later including the blocking of the EVGA 780 Ti Classified and the very simple backplate installation. If I wasn't buying a new camera next week I'd buy another GPU cos I love GK110 and can get it a decent price. My loop is done, everything is in place for leak testing later today *crosses fingers*. Can't do Ekasinia justice in taking a photo atm with paper towels all over and cables for fans, controller, pump looking a mess. Could do with Sata to Molex power connector adaptors having used all the dedicated Molex available.

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Holy cow, two 1TB EVOs :o

 

And I thought that F35 jet is expensive ;)

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Are you after a SSD? If you aren't bothered about an older/slower SSD the Crucial M500 960GB could be worth you checking out WhyCry if capacity is a priority otherwise good middleground is 500GB EVO.

 

One EVO wasn't enough simply based in the games I currently have installed (1.1TB) and need to keep around 20% free for performance optimisations (BGC and TRIM). That's the limit I feel comfortable with and that results in no more than 750GB used from about 931GB formatted. All games will be on EVO's. More than fast enough for a heavily modded Skryrim and increase in R/W speed will no longer put me off installing whatever mods I feel like or huge RTS titles like Rome 2. When I load this PC up (OS on SSDs) there's data loading from 2TB HDD some 40 seconds later and that's irritating. And cos I plan on buying new camera, I can load RAW onto Pros and batch them far quicker, then have them saved to NAS or upload for family to watch soon after.

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GTX 780 Ti Classified blocked and backplate added
as always click for larger image B)
 
This is the EK 780 version 2.0 backplate with added compatibility for 780 Ti and KPE
NDui8qil.jpg 383VyS4l.jpg
 
Been waiting since December to take apart the 780 Ti and add the top performing nickel acetal block, now is finally the time
 
9LpgJwLl.jpg
Y6lujfUl.jpg 4ep86fpl.jpg
 

Generous assortment of tools and screws are provided and detailed guide to help most system builders achieve successful mounting. If this is your first time read the entire sheet and allow yourself good time, although I've fitted many custom coolers this is the first time I've blocked a GPU. Took 1 hour 10 mins in total, if I did this again without re-reading and thinking I could get this under the ideal time of 30 minutes. Yes that seems ages and for me if was more important to get it perfect first try which is was after running it in my loop yesterday, last test is making sure it works at desktop and gaming. Anyway enough talk.
 
XQO59myl.jpg 4IHsOBEl.jpg

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continued...
 
ACX is the best cooler I've had and beats the custom 3-slots coolers or aftermarket coolers hands down. Despite that it must come off. Quick tip, wrap it in cling film (and PCB shroud) if you have to return it and this gets around the RMA rejection if you're not allowed to remove the cooler and keeps the thermal pads fresh. With EVGA you can fit your own cooler and remain under warranty, MSI also allows this but not sure if it's really across the range.
 
1gtPq43l.jpg EAFMquOl.jpg
 
Start with the spring-loaded screws around the GPU first then the rest including the bracket, also how a screwdriver works :P Those with SOH failure can get out now ;)
 
4T1Nhytl.jpg b6UdxaYl.jpg
 
NOTE: As you are removing the cooler, be aware of the very short PWM fan cable, all I did was tilt cooler down towards me and pull the fan header from the sides. True I've seen worse but wow did EVGA use a lot of TIM. Removing the shroud will result in PCB being weaker and it's why I bought a backplate, simply looks better :)
 
dV0DZsgl.jpg f2t2oYql.jpg
 
ObjubPml.jpg Oe9RfHgl.jpg
 
Cleaned up with usual Akasa fluids and disposable towels to reveal the GPU we all know and love, GK110-425-B1. You also have to clean the modules and for good measure the PWMs, because they are so small I used Q-tips.
 
ezc6KPWl.jpg VwZBUVKl.jpg

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continued....
 
Took a few more shots before fitting the block
 
gGwaEj3l.jpg jRgozful.jpg
 
VMrhFWGl.jpg FClFFxFl.jpg
 
Application of MX4 (cling film method) and thermal pads cut to size for PWMs, ignored tip from sheet to use more TIM to 'improve' temps, read on OCN it doesn't matter cos it's better thermal pads where temps will help
 
lW3BAT4l.jpg TJeUqwzl.jpg
 
Block fitted and nearly ready to kick ass ;) Another thermal pad to add to backplate, again you get generous amounts. To keep within instructions (and be anal) I added all the screws to block,  for the backplate I removed the four highlighted screws to secure it, turn it over to secure the final two and you're done!
 
fsztNAOl.jpg KSCn9ffl.jpg
 
For those that need to know if a blocked Classified will fit in their case, here's your answer...
 
6ywcnsBl.jpg pTtv1J9l.jpg
 
EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified blocked and backplate fitted :beer:
 
rVWEiKkl.jpg B9RVUeYl.jpg

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mother of GPUs :o total awesomeness... hehe very nice smith ! , when you finished with the leak test , mind record the filling of your loop ? :P

Regards

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Thanks guys :)

 

I mentioned on shoutbox I had to redo a section of loop cos my many fittings (from top rad to mosfets) had a slow leak (1 drop every 7 hours). Looks better with green tubing and less points of failure. After emptying coolant and refilling it has set me back a day. On the front line and back to bubble duty!

 

When filling the res Omega, turn on the PSU from the back for a couple of seconds and turn off. Check every connection for leaks and refill. I'm using an unused disposable coffee cup to easily pour from the 1 litre container into the top of res. Turn back on and watch the amazing flow power of two pumps! Keep doing this until res stops dropping below half way. I take this opportunity to work out and lift the 900D back and forth sideways, I find it also helps free trapped air which was handy. Keep the system running and every now and then turn off the PSU and give the case another workout - another tip is to rest the case against a wall at an angle and to help free some more bubbles automatically. Important that you keep the top port open on the res otherwise you'll not free any air, basics I know but have to say. Be careful when wrestling with the case not to get too carried away to avoid coolant spilling over and others thinking you've lost it completely :P Without any further leaks Operation Bubbles should end 20/03/2014 18:00 hours.

 

If you want to know specifics Omega list your questions and I'll quickly go through them.

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Another photo of the 1TB EVO's inside the 900D this time with the leak testing done but res still has bubbles. Quick photos gives a good idea how it will look and I have the Avexir Venom RAM installed. Going to be tidier than this as this was from testing, much work to do!

 

Ignore where the EVOs are placed atm (only there to show), already installed EVO's in drive cage on the right. Bays #1 and #2 are for 840 Pro's and #3 for a WD Caviar Black 2TB, #4 and #5 for EVO's. Depending on how the rest of the build looks, I have the possibility to mount the EVO's on the other side out of sight with sticky Velcro but the Caviar Black needs to be in that cage near the beQuiet 140mm fan.

 

Tonight I'm going to image data from 840 Pro's to HDD. Then secure erase during install with R4BE BIOS tool, handy to test how I get on with this versus my usual method which requires using  spare USB thumb. Should probably buy a couple more.

 

Quick HDR edit - you can very easily see the green UV tubing and yes the PSU does have LEDs :)

 

isxVEJpl.jpg WiYoq6bl.jpg

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wow really looking good..

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looking very nice mate :) keep up the hard work

Regards

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Thanks a lot, appreciate the kind words  :)  The system has been on for 4 days and no leaks at all.

A lot of thought and money has went into this and have yet to reach the point of finding out that blocking the 4930K+R4BE+780 Ti Classified has worked as planned.

The cooling is crazy and amazing for a lonely GPU and I'm itching to find out what the stock temps are and how far it can be gently pushed before I have to get dirty with BIOS and have some fun.

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Damn, yesterday a total of 3 black wires for the molex connector came lose on the Lamptron FC8 after a single pin dropped down. Yesterday I had planned imaging the 840 PRO RAID-0 to 2TB HDD but other things popped up. Not sure how to get it back in with the tools I have and swapped the controller out the 900D for the other one. Was a pain because the controller grips onto the 3-pin fan headers and you need to push it away from them to get it off and then onto new controller. Also whoever designed molex connectors wants questioning, preferably probing! If I had the knowledge I would if possible, change the connector to SATA but checking the numerous interconnecting cables says otherwise. A straight conversion could work but until I get into fancy custom braiding I'll make do with adaptors.

 

Another issue that I came across (already knew about this), the 900D plastic for cable management on the back snapped at the end when trying to open it with the standard cables secured. Fair enough if it snapped if I had crammed my own cables in but I didn't. Honestly didn't like this method and instead I've cut from a roll of Velcro slim lengths to replace it. It's very secure and tight and doesn't bulge when I add more, if it does I can source some pieces of think plastic/metal and stick it using glue on the inside to keep it straight. Not a big deal and at least it won't snap! May call out to Corsair to send me a replacement, they sorted me out when Folding PSU cable connector snapped without any hassle.

 

Other than that I've been tidying up the cables as I add more. There's very limited room in the bottom of the 900D; the large PSU and rad in p/p with dual pumps takes up most of the room and only leaves the middle of the case to dump excess wires (good reason why I may revisit getting PSU cables braided) while making effort to ensure this doesn't obstruct too much the exhausted air. Yes the air comes directly from the room into the bottom rad and out than taking in hotter case temp air. Helps the airflow pressure as some of it passes upwards and sideways towards the top rad p/p and 140mm exhaust case fan with 140mm fan intake on the front near the storage cages. R4BE should be no more than 30C, if its around 5C hotter this could indicate that some air is being redirected inadvertently upwards. The dual pumps aren't a worry as their circular shape means the air flows naturally around it, meanwhile the PSU is flat and air would I hope exit through the rear venting. To help with general cooling and pressure the numerous rear vents are to blocked off if I can find the right foam.

 

Next update the Xonar Phoebus and 660 Ti PE will be installed and W8.1 popped onto SSDs, then testing temps stock before any overclocking  B)  Without the soundcard any gaming/music/movies will be horrible and I'll have to crack on and relegate this lovely PC and make use of it somehow.... a media PC perhaps in a Corsair 300D with (much cheaper) custom cooling. My word I waffled a lot there :P

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Quiet day for me today (apart from sorting out drivers, etc) that I can post current 24/7 stable clocks in a bit detail.

 

Asus Rampage 4 Black Edition on latest BIOS version 0602 and dated 26th February 2014. I found the default BIOS to be picky with my RAM in overclocking, was fine in running it set to Auto SPD but as soon as I touched that it got stuck in reboot cycle. A quick MemOK got it back without a clear CMOS. Initially set up the system without the soundcard (Asus Phoebus) or secondary GPU just to get the main drivers installed and tested (always get them via the website please!). What I didn't test was the onboard audio, I had too much to do. The blocked board normally peaks at CPU temps of 50C from what I recall this morning.

 

Intel Core i7 4930K revision S0/S1. First component I bought and yet to find how highly binned this is. With such a strong motherboard and indepth BIOS more directed towards LN2 and watercooling than most I usual come across, its very step learning curve. Got the usual settings sorted to get this 6C processor to 4.7GHz at a very stable 1.4vcore and do aim to reduce this as low to 1.3v as I can. For a 3930K 1.4 - 1.45v is fine but this can manage and should manage 1v lower still. The point too of pushing a higher vcore is to test the cooling for a balance of what to expect when pushing for benching or relaxing it for gaming. With my fan controller at 50% (very quiet) my CPU at 4.7GHz is 38C at desktop (room temp is 24C, delta 14C) BUT be aware that my BIOS is tuned towards very high performance. With fan controller at 100% this drops to 33C and during benchmarking this increases to 54C.

 

Avexir DDR3 2133MHz RAM. No need at all for blocks on RAM and have this on air with green LEDs running @ 2400MHz @ CAS 10-12-12-31-1T 1.65v. CPU-Z incorrectly detects the timings as too high, AIDA64 reads only the XMP 1.3 profile (never used it and got it straight to manual tuning), and MemTweakIt doesn't run correctly. I suspect this is due to the behaviour of the BIOS in running the IB-E compatibility RAM mode and will try turning this off.

 

EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified 3GB. This is less complicated to play about with versus the R4BE and its a lot of fun on water. To avoid people directly copying my results I'll not specify the other voltages here which in any case runs on modded BIOS so again don't copy them. End result of 3 minutes quick tweaking results in a base clock of 1310MHz and memory at 7500MHz for 360GB/s bandwidth. Also have my GTX 680 as secondary GPU for physx and see how that helps pulls up FPS in Borderlands 2 and Batman series.

 

Here's the screenshot I posted in Valley benchmark thread and the settings I'm using currently. My next target is pushing the CPU towards 5GHz and either the GPU core to 1400MHz (helps with benchmarks) or memory to 2GHz (helps games but rare to achieve). Also I know you want to see final photos of the build but having just salvaged from my old 2600K build and not installed my usual suite of software you'll have to wait a bit longer. Photos will be from my new Canon 70D and not used that much either, have a bit more to learn just yet :)

 

npwPhJIl.png

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very interesting smith , sound like you are having a lot of fun . I wonder how good the photos will be with this awesome camera you just bought :D

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Been too busy having fun to post photos yet. 780 Ti ACX cooler on BF4 with Ultra settings I was getting around 82fps, last night I was getting on average (quick glances at Fraps) 130fps!! Thats with GPU reduced down to 1235 and memory at 1875 with temps maxing at 39C with the CPU clocked to 4.7GHz maxing at 40C. My old system it was running PCI-E 2.0 x8 and this runs at PCI-E 3.0 x16 and shouldn't matter that much. I'll put it down to fresh OS, great IMC and everything blocked ;)

 

One game that is annoying me and has done since release is Borderlands 2. That's why I said I'll try the 680 as dedicated physx than the 660 Ti PE but performance is the same with everything maxed and PhysX on High. FPS is capped at 120fps ingame and when screen is busy with explosions and high amounts of particles this dips down to the 'normal' 50fps and shows (in this game anyway) that even at these clocks it makes no perceived difference. Not a game I liked performance wise since release. Spent about an hour tweaking every setting for quality and turning off settings that makes no difference to quality to pull up PhysX performance and got a stable 71fps when it dips. The game vanilla just sucks for quality and performance.

 

Anything else that impresses me or rubs me up the wrong way I'll post it here. Oh and here's my Cinebench subsystem score, not tuned in anyway to push any figures atm ...

 

FoFv9qMl.png

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Ran AS SSD to check performance and play about with Rapid mode, I've yet to try out ATTO. I'm limited to the two 1TB EVOs being on the ASMedia controller as that maxes out at around 380MB/s versus Intel at around 560MB/s. I'm using the 840 Pros on the two Intel 6Gb/s ports available with four ASMedia 6Gb/s ports available and that's where the two EVOs sits.

 

Good to see using a spare 1GB RAM such a big increase to TLC NAND speeds and currently using this to boost my main gaming SSD (both EVOs have my game installs). Write cache buffer isn't disabled on the SSDs cos I value my data and would only give a moderate boost. This shows how my system will run everyday than trying to skew results in anyway.

 

KT7fPOsl.png

 

I3Y8LCTl.png

 

I added the 840 Pro for comparison with the impressive EVO speeds to see how things compare. Ignoring the normally high read, write speeds the rest of the results aren't to be sniffed at. In the EVO compression data with Rapid enabled you see a big dip in writes from 5423MB/s to 380MB/s due to running out of RAM for Rapid and showing standard TLC SSD speeds. Once the data is flushed out again it regains to an average of 4600MB/s writes and 4680MB/s read. These speeds are very useful for any media work to make use of this short amount of RAM caching the SSD that anyone with Samsung SSDs can make use of via Magician. The 840 Pro does make far better use of uncompressable data than the EVOs if sustaining high throughputs to disk, otherwise your other options are RAMdisk, PCI-E SSDs, or RAID controllers.

 

For gamers its more useful for recording gameplay while quickly loading up large heavily modded maps from RPGs. WhyCry had benchmarked this too with ATTO and can't recall how much gaming had been affected. For everything such as critical systems, using it is a huge risk, there are no extra capacitors to finish writes to NAND unlike Crucial M500/M550 or Intel 730K would if your PC shutdown or crashed suddenly.

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Rapid mode is 99% pointless. Sure I have it enabled, but it has not affected both gaming and system speed whatsoever. This is simply an operating system reading most common files from the memory rather than SSD itself. It has little effect on gaming since such files are not common, thus not loaded to the memory. In fact it should be you Smith to notice a difference, since your EVOs have more capacity, so more cache for the system. My SSD is simply too small to load all required files to make me feel the difference.

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Final pictures please ! :) . I don't really understand those benching things, that's why i restraint from posting crap lol.

Regards

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Omega, its not known how well other non-Intel Sata III ports perform and if you are going to spent £££ on a SSD now you know, its really that simple ;) And I found the issue with reading the right RAM timings was down to not using the latest 64 bit version of CPU-Z.

 

Final pictures delayed cos I only got my card reader this week and I've been playing about with the camera options (you have limits but can edit RAW within the camera!) and learning LightRoom 5.3b. Going from using full manual on 400D (amateur) to full manual on 70D (semi-pro) is a massive difference and using it isn't the same as before. I shall answer the request and TRY to post 6 from a selection of new shoots next week :)

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I've had to redo a part of my loop this morning after noticing the 4930K temperatures were high, room was 24C. Idle at desktop/BIOS was 39C, load reached 78C at 4.5GHz - motherboard and GPU temperatures were great as always. This was a bit odd after spending time with the system and knowing that idle would be normally at 29-31C and load at max 64C (normally running Folding for several hours overnight or rendering). I took off the nice Bitspower fittings from the mosfets block to the CPU block and back to the chipset block, for now it's all tubing. Angle is really tight and had meant making the tube long as to avoid kinking so now it looks a bit silly on one section.

 

Normally my system uses 1.7 litres of coolant but managed to get away with using a single 1L bottle through partial drain of the loop, now I'm down to 2 spare bottles. In total (since the build was completed) I've drained the loop twice, the first time was because of a leak (mentioned before) in one of the many fittings. This is part of the reason I decided to keep it simple looking again to have less chance for issues in future. Although the temperatures aren't ideal, we are talking about a hexcore pulling 150W TDP at 4.5GHz, 1.38vcore and motherboard setup to pull high current for stability.

 

If there's suggestions for solving the higher CPU temps please let me know. If there's a compelling waterblock better than my EK Supremacy Elite I'd probably buy it to test it out for comparison sake. For now this will have to do but I'm far from happy about it... it has to be perfect and nothing less will be accepted.

 

A couple of quick web sized photos to summarise the change, this was taken on my new Canon 70D with nothing altered other than darkening the image and saving the RAW as JPEG.

 

FBdAat4.jpg

s3yry6j.jpg

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Hi smith ,

I hope that you fix the temp issue , but sorry i dont like your new loop , especially the curved  " C " tube :/  .

I dont know if it is better than the EK elite , but for that price this CPU block might be excellent lol.

ex-blc-1096.jpg Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT Series - .925 Silver Edition - Socket LGA 2011 Price: $309.99

ex-blc-1092.jpg Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT Series - Nickel Plated - Socket LGA 2011 Price: $94.99

TBH , your pictures are stunning with the camera you have now . BTW we are still waiting for final pic ;)

Regards.

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Hi Omega, I thought about it briefly and I may be able to remedy the stupid tube by going this route to avoid tight bends.. top rad > CPU inlet > CPU outlet > mosfet left > mosfet right > chipset right > chipset left > GPU - after that it's normal as usual.

 

Needed to check that the fittings-only I had installed wasn't causing the high temps. Seeing now that that reduced it a little I will now put in an order for more tubing (can never have too much), 4 more compression fittings, and may as well grab that CPU block. I did know about the Aqua Computer Cuplex Kryos XT .925 Silver Edition but put it off cos everything else was building up to a lot but now I may be tempted even though the difference in performance is small versus the competition but using pins than slots which may well help better cool each core evenly. So annoying that the rest of the blocks are showing great temps and within what they should be apart from the CPU. I do like Aqua Computer and this would be my first product from them and like the solid German manufacturing we know we can trust.

 

Not sure what adaptors or compression fittings would be compatible (elsewhere they state the normal G1/4 unless they are talking about the threads), any ideas? : "larger compression fittings will NOT fit this block without the use of adapters!"

 

Oh thanks about the new photos :D I am doing a LOT less correction in LR/PS and each time I use the 70D I love it even more. When I decide to order the new parts and sort out the layout (cos it's not great) I'll post the unboxing then the 'final' shots soon after ;)

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Hi again ,

IF you go this route " top rad > CPU inlet > CPU outlet > mosfet left > mosfet right > chipset right > chipset left > GPU " will it not affect the temps ? , base on only logic , the coolant might be hotter when it goes through the CPU block >mosfet then to the GPU , i mean the coolant will not be as cool as it should be when it go through a radiator , if you see what i mean.

A small review about the kryos back from 2013 : http://www.overclock.net/t/1411620/review-cpu-cooler-roundup-nine-water-coolers-in-test-alphacool-aquacomputer-ek-waterblocks-koolance-phobya-swiftech-xspc

Regards

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