144 posts in this topic

I've checked that all GTX 780 TI Classifieds have immature BIOS. Jacob confirmed that a new BIOS is on its way after lots of annoyed people contacted EVGA on the forums and twitter.

 

 

EVGA: "Unfortunately the comment I made about new BIOS coming was a bit premature unfortunately... we found how to fix it and can, but we ran into a roadblock with releasing it. There's a 3rd party BIOS floating around that essentially has the same changes, but obviously not "officially" endorsed by EVGA. We are still working on and official EVGA version however."

 

My Classy allows only +125MHz on the core and +150MHz memory offset, doesn't matter if you apply additional volts or not benchmarks crashes and reverts to stocks volts. Other are using Skyn3t BIOS but that was took down and is essentially what the fixed EVGA bios is. If you read that thread you'll see it's possible to let volts fly high up to 1.5 for either H20/LN2 builds or flash to increase the Power Limit but in either case the power phases temps are high and requires additional air cooling. Though I could easily flash this myself I prefer to await official EVGA instructions and BIOS because I simply require better clocks, sort it EVGA!!

 

This card has huge potential, the SC can reach 1300+/1920+ MHz. How silly is this, the SC has better potential than the Classified!!! Current stable clocks are - Core/Boost: 1145MHz/1210 Memory: 1825MHz (better than most with this BIOS issue). The EVGA EVBot would have been on my buy list but these aren't available and hard to come by after Nvidia pressured EVGA -_-

 

GPU-Z and EVGA Precision X screenshot showing current stable clocks on released 80.80.34.01.80 BIOS. Classified skin for PrecisionX doesn't show the Temp Target and isn't used, using the default skin for now. The real-time clocks you see in PrecisionX are somehow stuck in low powerstate and don't change no matter the load I place on it, in any case I always benchmark with GPU-Z open.

 

xYtXkgk.png

 

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Inspector won't me to unlock volts or Power Target, either the official BIOS will fix this or may use unofficial knowing I have dual BIOS to fall back on.

 

If you REALLY want me to run game benchmarks, knowing I'm not able to run with with good overclocks and simply what you see here, let me know and I'll post them. Any PhysX based games WILL be using my 660 Ti unless you say otherwise. Right, time to test out some games before I fall asleep at my desk ;)

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You don't have run BENCHMARKS, but you can tell us about your impressions running single card compared to your previous configuration :)

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You don't have run BENCHMARKS, but you can tell us about your impressions running single card compared to your previous configuration :)

Yeah that's my question too, how did the single 780ti performs when compared with 680 SLI

BTW, Smith, you sold yours 680's?

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Its smoother and I don't have to turn down settings now as VRAM is not an issue. BioShock Infinite on Alternate DX11 was too demanding for 680-SLI and had occasional stuttering but I knew this was caused by running out of framebuffer, it used about 2420MB VRAM maximum settings at 1080p on 780 TI. Frametimes are down to single digits, sometimes going up to 15ms whereas SLI is double this - will have to play BF4 for a while today to see if this makes any difference. There are titles that I class unoptimised such as the free AC: Black Flag I was just trying and can't use Low Soft Shadows (using Very High which is next one down) or TXAA or any other AA, having to use FXAA. Most people with 780 Ti in SLI or Titan's have to play on these settings too. No idea what setup Nvidia used to show off TXAA but I'm sure we'd all like to know. So you all know, the Classified is running PCI Express 2.0 @x8, not running x16 due to GTX 660 Ti PE running in second slot, and I can't come to a conclusion about the Classified until I can push the clocks on a new BIOS for extra FPS.

 

I haven't ran 3DMark to compare directly the performance but when I benchmarked 680-SLI it was pushed very hard, this Classified is breezing along with 125MHz on core and memory, any higher and it resets the clocks so I'd say from gaming it's the same performance as my 680's. Temperatures are very good and never went above 71c whereas 680s close together (they are 3-slot) went up to 86c, I recall one 680 maxes at 73c.

 

No Skr, I haven't sold them, plan to use one of the GTX 680s in my Folding PC to boost PPD a bit.

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Decided to run 3DMark11 and check out the clocks, guess what, I see 2GHz on the memory AND temps were only 70c :)

Validation link. Will update this post if I beat it again. Oh and the score was P15,814.

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New Board

 

Mmm, I wonder what this sexy beast is that I received today ;)
 

click for larger image

NWIXk0r.jpg

 

This is so rare that only 1000 are out in the wild and gather mainly in the US to forage.

 

OA9qEL1.jpg

 

This is where the native 257mm2 quad-channel 6-core 4930K will call home. Hard to do this on stock lens and can do a better one if required.

 

 

New RAM

 

Also in my possession is 32GB of quality low timing 2133MHz DDR3 in 8GB modules, the extreme enthusiast Avexir Venom series. It's installed in my current PC and I'm loving them as well as the slow pulsing green LEDs. I have them stable at 9-11-10-27 1T at 1.65v on P67 platform with just 5 minutes tweaking. For 8GB sticks these are impressive as 4GB would have these. Proves you don't need to avoid 8GB. What I don't yet know is how the total amount of memory, frequency, timings will affect the max overclock for the 4930K's IMC. As you can see, I'm taking things slowly and testing the potential before deciding how to shape Ekasinia, I'm saying that know how immature the boards BIOS is. This new board will help but it's still very complicated to know how to expertly adjust and may end up asking 8 Pack if needed.

 

JRDWOLP.jpg

 

 

Classified BIOS Flashed

 

Moving on, I successfully flashed the GTX 780 TI BIOS to help overcome the overclocking limitation and keep it stable. This I have now done but temperatures at 1250 boost and 1900 memory are high for my liking at 81c, even with the additional cooling over the GPU. The BIOS I used was found over at OCN and aimed at those with it blocked but I like to dabble because I have the assurance of a dual BIOS and not being an idiot pushing silly volts or clocks through.

 

First step is to grab the flashing utility and relevant BIOS. Note that I'm only showing the screenshots to show the results I achieved, this should not be seen as a guide, I will not be held responsible for any damage caused. Seek helpful advice over at [Official] EVGA Classified Owner's Club.

 

Before you start BACK UP your existing BIOS to a safe location using GPU-Z

10nxxb1.png

 

Step one for the GTX 780 TI Classified is to download 'nvflash_windows_5.134.0.1' and the modded BIOS that you prefer to use.

OYqfpFI.png

 

Copy from that archive 3 files: nvflash, nvflsh32.sys, nvflsh64.sys and copy to a new folder called 'nvflash'. Also move the modded BIOS you choose to download to this location, I used FTW_2002.rom - it unlocks Power Target to 200% (doesn't actually show 200% so be careful) and unlocks volts up to a crazy 1.5v but you shouldn't use more than 1.2v on air, and up to 1.35v on water due to big increase in heat. And heat kills!

lIaGnRC.png

 

Here I turn off the GTX 780 TI Classified BIOS protection to display <0>. After a successful flash the GPU beeps once:

 

m0jMeVT.png

 

This command forces a BIOS flash and took about 15 seconds to complete successfully, it may ask for additional flashes if it detected another similar GPU otherwise it ends the process safely by adding back on write protection to the BIOS. Restart your PC. For some you may have to install your display drivers but I did not and have ran multiple benchmarks and games without issue:

 

bMFPQ8X.png

 

When you are verifying your new clocks keep GPU-Z open to monitor the real-time clocks, temps, volts and fan usage if applicable. For modded BIOS you should use a multimeter with Probe It (plugs into the top of the GPU) to monitor voltages. To adjust voltages grab an EVBot or adjust with Classy Voltage Tuner 2.0 - you can only buy EVBot second hand and was essentially banned by Nvidia on the GTX 680's and makes Classified GPUs pointless since you are still limited by Nvidia's voltage limit and how far you can push clocks to ensure stability. A modded BIOS with nearly unlimited voltage to play with is an pro overclockers dream. These are the readings at idle on modded BIOS and note that these aren't 100% accurate and why I said you should use a multimeter:

 

qIlQa52.png

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I think Skr should bookmark your post about BIOS flashing (joke) :)

 

I also think you might be interested in this post http://www.techpowerup.com/196109/ek-introduces-asus-rampage-iv-black-edition-water-block-kit.html

 

I didn't know you were expecting the motherboard already, but it looks like the only missing part is the case and the loop.

 

Flashing with DUAL bios card is a easy job, as you can always recover if things went wront, besides when I flashed the MSI 670, I flashed the card with a bios from different manufacturer(Galaxy) which required to change some values in KBE (worked for some guys though).

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Until recently I wasn't expecting R4BE until next week but OCUK kicked Asus into gear - at one point the delay meant not getting the board til the end of January. From only 300 assigned to Europe they managed to grab enough to clear any preorders with 5 left over. Asus have been a dick to us in Europe and UK when US had far more stock months ago. Got to get this EK chipset block ordered along with CPU+GPU EK blocks if in stock. The bottom chipset is only used for Sata controllers these days and it states it cools as well as existing cooling which makes this more for aesthetics than anything else. Chipset block will complicate the layout and probably why I will order fittings another time to make sure I grab the essential blocks and rads now.

 

More good news is that my SuperFlower 1200W PSU has been sent out and currently stuck in a depot, may get it in 2 days time as all deliveries carry the same priority. Still thinking over getting the PSU braided because it does void the warranty and what colour to pick. May go for black (mostly) and green as contrasting colours but haven't come across a premium style I like yet. Then all I am missing is the Corsair 900D, and all the watercooling goodness I mentioned that will take up most of the build time.

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Thanks, really depends on your definition of 'soon' :P  I'd like to bench test everything on air but I don't have a CPU cooler to do this with, will end up going straight in with water and goes against everything I know you shouldn't do. The short distance from each block will mean the chipset won't be connected via tubing and more than likely using fittings and have no idea atm what angle fittings to grab but there will be lots of 45 and 90's. As a last suggestion on this matter, which CPU block is generally the best LGA2011 you'd go for? I do have an old block in mind but this EK block seems to be one of the good ones atm.

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The CPU block in your link is the one i bought . You should plan your "fittings route " on paper first to have an idea of the fitting you will need, i know it is very hard as i havent been able to do it by now lol

Regards

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I think you should take the Ti up to 1.55V =]

xd

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And you think I just have LN2 lying about for those volts which by the way are 0.5v above what's actually possible cos it maxes at 1.5v ;)

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I'm interested in your new RAM performance, are you even going to overclock it?

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I can't overclock the RAM on SB, max is 2133MHz  :facepalm:  whereas IB it's stable up to 2400MHz but depends a whole lot on the IMC. R4BE+4930K should allow the best possible chance despite using 8GB sticks.

 

Every increase in RAM speed you have to loosen the timings. Towards 2600MHz you'd need to bump volts to 1.7 in order to keep timings lower and would be my maximum unless I changed my mind about blocking them which I won't. The more you increase the speed of RAM the less performance you get in return for gaming. Because it's used for transcoding, etc too I will have to find the potential. One step at a time because this is a new board and BIOS isn't as robust as RIVE yet.

 

On to the new BIOS flashed this afternoon and I managed to get decent core clocks this time for gaming stable on stock ACX cooler, expect much better results with new loop. These quick tests should do for now and new BIOS disables boost ......

 

GPU: 1230MHz

Memory: 1950MHz (7800MHz)

PowerTune: 122% [A good PSU is key here for modded BIOS as it will pull well above TDP, right up to 900W at 200% for LN2!!]

Voltage: 1.162mV [up to 1.8 is fine for stock coolers as 1.2 hits 80c]

Temperature 62c gaming, 72c benchmarking for 30 minutes.

 

ZAsOttRm.png

 

GPU-Z: That give me a bandwidth of 374.4GB/s at PCIe 2.0 x8 http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/mu8r3/

3DMark FireStrike: scored 11523 (google for comparison) http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1407486

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Before we take a step forward to the best PSU available, more photos to check out (click to view original) ...

 

7k5j6E8m.jpg U6AavULm.jpg

Asus Rampage IV Black Edition LGA2011 board - turns out only 1000 were made worldwide

 

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4x8GB Avexir Venom Ram during the day (left) and at night (right). Hard to show the slow flashing across the modules but it's not annoying me and brightness is fine. I think you can adjust it but have been too busy to find out.

 

5isFQTym.jpg znSa3vPm.jpg

No idea why the box is white for a black PSU, or why it shows a white PSU when the one I have inside is black, no big deal. We have here a 1200W 92% Platinum PSU that is (unofficially) capable of 1600W (very underrated) and enough juice to even power four 290Xs for mining or four 780 TI's for Folding. Even if you went for the 1300W Gold it's still a great option, I heard it was only 1% from Plat cert. For my setup 1200W is good enough to push the clocks and volts without the PSU being the weak link and you know better than to skimp on a PSU!

 

This is fully modular and connection to PSU has white LEDs which I think you can turn off. Features 100% Jap caps for durability. The fans are inaudible below approx 750 RPM, you might hear the 140mm fan during full load but it should be an irrelevant wind noise. Size wise it's (D)200 x (W)150 x (H)86 mm and weighs a reassuring 3KGs. Johnny Guru has the excellent 1000W reviewed if you want to check that out but this is a first look unbox.

 

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Quality polyurethane foam that retains its structure that if damaged in transit it won't break and become useless, very reassuring! The black bag is for all your cables and from a quick observation, it's better quality than the black bag I got with the Corsair HX850 stored on my cupboard. Most of the main cables are braided (very good quality, very tight braiding) but the Sata and Molex power cables aren't braided and are the standard black Corsair affair. If you can hide these there shouldn't be a problem with these but I need them all braided and will look into this after I have tested the system and ran burn in tests for stability. As with all quality PSU's it is further protected inside a SuperFlower labelled bag and within that another plastic bag to protect from dust and moisture.

 

Finally, the damn PSU photos after all that teasing! :P

 

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Should really get a sharp prime lens as these are took on a quality IS telephoto lens in a small-ish room and why its a bit blurry, I'm a bit mad and sometimes it helps :P So there you go, I now have a new PSU to power the new system. The planning for my loop begins.

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There's always one *kidding* the light faded early with the bad weather. Got the box open again and there are the four case screws and US 2-pin kettle plug which is useless here so OCUK provided a free 3-pin UK kettle plug worth £2.40 ... don't want to miss anything off :P
 
Non-braided we have:

  • 1X SATA (x2) + 4-pin Molex (x2)
  • 2X SATA (x4)
  • 1x 4-pin Molex (x3) + 4-pin floppy drive power (x1)

Braided there are:

  • 1X 20+4-pin ATX 12V power cable. V2.2, EPS 12V. V2.91 & SSI EPS 12V. V2.92 [Note that I can get 1199W alone along this rail]
  • 3X 6+2-pin-PCI Express (x2)
  • 2X 6+2-pin-PCI Express (x1)
  • 1X 4+4-pin ATX 12V/EPS 12V (x1) [CPU1]
  • 1X 8-pin EPS 12V (x1) [CPU2]

 

make sure to click these images to view the original - they aren't more than 3 MB each and are very good detail on stock lens that it showed I needed to use a can of compressed on to get rid of some loose fabric that you can't easily see with the naked eye.
 
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Non-braided cables I mentioned in previous post, hope I can get these braided and are easy to poke out (no I won't be doing this)

 

KZcCDAvm.jpg

 

 

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hehe nice , am a bite jealous to be honest :P . When will you order the "water-cooling" part ?

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From next month, will order case and maybe another GPU first and not too long after buy the rads and blocks to plan to layout to ensure I have enough space and know the angles to order exactly what I need. I'm not building a practical cost-effective gaming system but one I've wanted to build and not skimped on to see me through til the end of 2015. Omega, as you are awaiting Haswell-E 2011-3 (same pins but different orientation annoyingly) K edition it will be an amazing system and one for the future too but I have my own reasons for jumping early. I've met sods law too many times to have any regrets and live for the moment instead of waiting and waiting.

 

I know you said the XTX 480 was too big but I don't think this will be an issue for the top (hope the width is good), the pull fans will be on the outside of the case with a shroud over the top. The bottom will be trickier but if it fits then I only need the two XTX 480s in P/P to sufficiently cool the possibly two GPU + CPU. The R4BE won't be blocked because it doesn't make any difference and would mean removing the nice black I/O shroud.

 

If I can figure where to attach a Bitspower mini valve I'll add it to make draining easier - obviously you add this at the lowest point of the loop which is from one of the rads or before it and find a way of hiding it for when needed. The other option is to use a rotary fitting and unscrew that. If I went for SLI they would go PCIe slot 1 and the second in PCIe slot 5 for PCIe 3.0 x16 each with the soundcard in the third slot that would likely reduce all slots bar the first to a not so bad PCIe 3.0 x8 each. Would have to go for traditional fitting and tube for the GPUs because there are no neat integrated SLI adapters for 4-slots I'm aware of, only 2 and 3 slots. With the 4-way SLI bridge I will have to make do despite spoiling the look for what I intended.

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Small post of what the modded BIOS reports. The scale for when I get it blocked is very impressive, these are my current everyday mild gaming clocks. Nvidia Inspector can detect it's a modded BIOS unlike GPU-Z.

 

From the power state it's confirmed that this doesn't have boost and I knew that before I flashed. Note that at idle clocks/volts do step down to 326/405MHz/0.8870mV. This BIOS allows for Power Target of 200% in Precision X but shows as 300% in Inspector, another modded BIOS file allows for 300% in Afterburner and this isn't the one I used, maybe it comes down to the utility that is used. No need to push for 200% or 300% because it would pull 600W/900W, pro benchers use this for LN2. The offset I have shows as +225mV in Inspector which is actually just 1.200mV in PrecisionX or Classy Voltage Tuner 2.0, you should really use Tuner 2.0 than PrecisionX or Afterburner to ensure volts are set and stable. Here it's set to 1.200mV on the GPU (required to keep higher GPU clocks stable) to quickly change GPU clocks for benching up to around 1260MHz depending on the application.

 

I've yet to check the total system power with the 780 TI Classified because I have misplaced the meter but once I find it again the idle/load will be posted. With the current PC I have using the above voltages and clocks it's what the PSU can manage from my estimations - the +12V rail is capable of up to 70A and for this GPU 42A is required at stock, clearly not enough for SLI if I decide that today. The SuperFlower 1200W Platinum PSU can manage SLI and is rated for an impressive 100A on the 12V rail. The cheaper 1300W Gold SuperFlower can manage slightly more at 108A and beyond 1300W+ the increase is negligible. I doubt even Titanium certification PSU's (very rare) would allow much more of increase over 110A but anyway a quad Classified would require dual-PSU's and loads placed on separate parts of the circuit, another socket, to avoid tripping it. My Belkin surge protectors have good joules rating and can handle 3000W.

 

Xmn926ym.png

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When exactly are you going to buy a new case? Also have you already tested your new CPU?

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Pointless ordering now because no deliveries would reach me til the 3rd anyway. No, haven't tested the CPU yet at all because the Phantek cooler I have on Folding PC is too large for the high RAM heatsinks. Going in first full on watercooling without a dry test for the first time.

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Quick update.

 

This is a list of what I took delivery of on Wednesday:

 

EK Supremacy Elite CSQ CPU Waterblock Intel 2011 Full Nickel
Be Quiet Shadow Wings SW1 140 x 140 x 25mm PWM BL027 Case Fan
XSPC EC6 Non Conductive Coolant 1 Litre 6 Pack Clear
2X Alphacool VPP655/Laing D5 Vario 12V Pump Unit
EK Dual CSQ Loop TOP
24 Pin ATX Power Supply Bridging Plug
3X 4 Pin Molex Sleeved Extension Cable
Plastic Funnel
Heavy Duty Hose Cutters
Arctic Cooling MX-4 Thermal Compund 20g

 

Delivery took for today:

 

Corsair 900D
EK-FC780 GTX Classified Acetal+Nickel
EK-RES X3 400 Reservoir
DEMCiflex Dust Filter Kit
XSPC 480mm Radiator Gasket
XSPC HighFlex Hose 2m GreenUV Green

 

Will leave my initial thought about the parts until I post photos. Rads and R4BE blocks aren't due to arrive for another 8 days because of holidays, etc. Ordered a couple 5 litre containers of distilled water for flushing direct from Mayhems here in the good old UK. The original idea was to use some of the coolant but that's silly because it won't do a good job and it's more expensive, my excess will last up for two years leaving enough for maintenance flush every 6 months.

 

My fans and fan splitters have been backordered from OCUK, they are chasing it up with the suppliers. After I get the rads and fans I can start flushing then spend more on fittings and I know no one store will have enough. Damn I needed the rads first to get something done or at least the blocks for the board. Getting my hands on all the necessary parts has been very hard, getting them in good time is impossible. I've been chasing up every late item so what more can you do but wait.

 

Will post more photos of everything I get over the coming days to weeks, stay tuned!

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Here is the Lamptron FC8 Fan Controller in Black Housing to bring order to the chaos of 16 rad fans. The two radiators will be in PP, each fan in pairs and going off a splitter and to the 30W per channel controller. Those fans and rads are delayed for approximately 10 days :(
 
click for full image ...
 
le2RqU5m.jpg ODTbl40m.jpg
 
This first came to market in 2011 and helped fill a niche and from the packaging you'll notice it has LEDs that circulate in white/blue/green/cyan/red/purple/yellow that you controller via pushing channel 8 button to then push the other channels and have a different colour then leave for 10 seconds to set - yeah very gimmicky. It's 148.5 x 42.5 x 76 mm, weighs 440g. These are classed as EOL and why I bought two, controller don't have a long life span and two is some insurance.
 
UYoHw1Hm.jpg 49nvlyLm.jpg
 
 
Packaging isn't anything special and served the job of protecting the contents using polyurethane foam.

However the contents were packed in really tight and have concerns over the controller because of the way it was designed and packed in the factory. The three Molex cables are stuffed under the controllers capacitors which meant it pushed them up out of alignment. I did very carefully have to move a couple because it was worryingly bent too much. First impression not very good.
 
This powerful controller requires that you connect all three 4-pin molex power cables and guide states to use a 600W+ PSU, damn it's not a GPU lol. Already bought three 4 Pin sleeved molex extensions because the ones on here are the bog standard ones and are way too short for installing 3/4 the way up in a 900D case. I could disconnect the power cable and give braiding a go but not yet, I think I can get away with hiding it out the way, not really worth it for such a short cable.
 
upWn7Fjm.jpg 9kjRoMGm.jpg
 
Seems like my camera is picking up dust kicked up from having my window open ;) The anodised silver face of the controller is a nice solid feeling and a DATRON CNC milled front panel, simply means they used a good machine to drill the holes for the knobs. Writing is laser etched for durability and clarity.
 
r9tsalam.jpg 7uZzZg4m.jpg

 

This what a 8 fan controller looks like and happy with the spacing if you happened to have PWM fans. The second image above illustrates my earlier point about the alignment and how it should have been packed to allow more room to avoid damage, I can't move it anymore than I have. Not even sure it works yet and hope it does, will test this as soon as I get the fans. The 12V power connection for the moxel cables is deliberately angled (if we can call it that but I'd say it's poor design), to allow the heat shrinked cable a route away from the capacitors. It doesn't push down and remains secure.

 

EftYweXm.jpg 5XSeHlfm.jpg

I'm going to continue keeping this honest and have to comment now on the alignment of the knobs, take a look at the first image above. I could only manage to raise or lower one knob, appears like the quality of the glue is suspect and didn't bond. Got the knobs level as best I could, the end two are meant to be raised because they sit on switches.

 

iQrF31xm.jpg B81Xmu9m.jpg

 

Finally some good news, I wasn't expecting eight 30cm 3-pin fan cables at all never mind braiding of this quality plus it saved me about £35 :) Either the cables are extortionate over here or this is a great deal. The FC8 only cost me £44.

 

If you are wondering maybe they aren't all like this, remember I have two and they are the same.

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Wish i could use the Lamptron as well , the best fan controller out there :)

Regards

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Quick Sunday teaser for you, been moving stuff around to make it easier to get organised and clear boxes from around the house.

 

click for full image ...

 

Jyv374Ym.jpg

 

From the top:

  • 2X Alphacool VPP655's (aka Laing D5)
  • EK Dual CSQ loop top, Black acetal (was difficult to find last month)
  • EK Supremacy Elite CSQ Intel 2011 full nickel (very difficult to find stock anywhere but found it from one UK store)
  • EK FC780 GTX Classy full cover block nickel acetal
  • 24 Pin ATX bridge
  • Hose cutters
  • Arctic Cooling MX-4 thermal compound 20g
  • To the right - EK reservoir X3 400 (large but so is the case, was fractionally more than the much smaller 250)
  • Behind - 6 metres of XSPC green UV 5/8 7/16 tubing

 

mxnPBZTm.jpg

 

Corsair Obsidian 900D Super Tower Case

Quickly took this photo in another room. Will unbox this massive case when the rad is ready to install and hope to have my fans by then from OCUK.

Will need the desk space for cleaning radiators, blocks, fittings and try to do this in one day.

 

Awaiting delivery:

  • 16X 120mm fans (no due date from OCUK)
  • 8X fan splitters (no due date from OCUK)
  • 2X 480 XT radiators (12 days from EKWB)
  • R4BE block (12 days from EKWB)
  • 2X 5L distilled water (early next week from Monsoon)

Looking around for shops with enough EK fittings and adapters, most have a lousy 5 pieces. Until I have all the items above installed, won't know for sure which adapters are required but the choice isn't huge. Other makes such as Monsoon, Bitspower, XSPC have plenty of options for change of loop direction otherwise to work it with EK requires fitting a couple of adapters together. Not ideal because this reduces flow and doesn't look as good as one solid adapter.

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