Hooligan

1080 FE for Thermaltake V1 itx

8 posts in this topic

Ok so I have been reading about how everyone is saying that the FE edition of the 1080 is a ripoff. But I have Thermaltake V1 ITX case, and was wondering if a rear exhausting card would be preferable in my situation.  Right now I have a dual fan open cooler GTX 970 and when it revs up it does increase temps in my case. There is an open grill right next to the card, but by sucking air through it I bring dust into my case. Most air enters from the front of my case where there is a filter. I have sealed off the grill on the opposite side from the graphics card effectively I have a positive pressure case. When the GPU starts spinning that changes. If I installed an air filter on the grill next to the GPU I worry that it would significantly cut down on air flow.. Hey guys help me make a good decision. Thank you.

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For SFF cases I generally side with reference coolers leaving you to install an AIO for the CPU to improve temperatures otherwise they will get too hot and ain't a lot of room for a decent sized heatsink on air. As for filters, I took all mine off on my 900D and it does drop temps and improve airflow without much of an increase in dust at all though it does help to have a really nice case to reduce hotspots/airflow issues. Been through lots of cases and have avoided those with several areas covered with mesh panels as they leak noise badly, unless you can mount fans on mesh I see this as a cheap out option than using thick solid panels.

Cases such as the Corsair Air 240 (397mm x 260mm x 320mm) allows more room for dual GPUs or simply more space for blowers to breathe, then allows room for 240mm rad at the front, or 120mm AIO exhusts for CPU top then 240mm rad for GPU in the front as intake. Good enough airflow not to worry as much about temps and cable management is routed behind the motherboard tray to keep airflow unrestricted. A good case is one that gives you options with an end result that is easy to achieve giving a professional look. Next up from this is the 540 but obviously larger than yours.

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Yes, I think blower fan will be the best option for you. Reference cards are open near the fan.

You are not forced to buy Founders Edition though, you can very well buy the ugliest card on the market, GALAX's own reference blower. It would be even better if the front fan would be moved few centimeters to the left. 

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I really appreciate your feedback and thoughts.

Smithaya-    Right now my CPU is being very effectively cooled by an Nocta D9l, which a smaller tower air cooler.. I have an OC of 4.5 @ 1.22v on a 4950k with max temps of 72 while stress testing. That increases when both the GPU and the CPU are under load... as I mentioned.  I have considered going to a AIO liquid solution, but from what I have read they are much louder under load, though I am sure it would be effective while both components are under load.  . BTW my ~1" square PC sits up on my desk to the right of my monitor and is barely noticeable from an acoustic perspective. It is tempting to put the whole thing in a new case, but that is primarily because it would let me do another build. I will take some time to look again at what itx cases are available, but between the temptation to replace parts that are already acceptable and the fact that for most purposes my present case is quite effective... I doubt I will take that path.  

WhyCry-    Thank you for your feedback and confirmation of my suspicion. I am tempted to ask you questions that are premature due to the fact that most versions of the card have not been released. Instead I will ask if you or anyone else could post reviews and thoughts about non-FE, reference style blower coolers to this thread. I know most such designs are widely looked down upon. Between the price, issues with the pulsing fan speed, and thermal throttling I feel unconvinced by the Founders Edition and hope to find the quietest, most effective blower cooler available in this generation of cards. Perhaps eventually we can add a poll.  For my purposes, I will go with function over form...  but.. you know... I don't hate pretty things.. Anyway thank you for your time and effort.

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Do you have a 4690K/4930K otherwise you are referring to a laptop SKU 4950HQ? ;) Anyway joking aside, your OC is at the top of what's expected on any cooler and clocks/volts are very good on air but I know that your Noctua NH-D9L cooler is effective so no real issues there at half the size of my dual-fan Phanteks PH-TC14PE for Folding PC with main PC being full custom watercooling.

AIO are a mixed bag, better off with 240mm rads and you'll benefit from lower RPM or replace stock fans if needed, generally you get twice the performance building your own for about $100 and better build quality if you wanted to dip your toe into watercooling. Honestly think it's unnecessary as you should put that towards a new GPU where you'll certainly notice the the noise over any CPU cooler, therefore ensure you have good PWM case fans to help keep RPM down with a continuous supply of fresh air to cool a blowers and keep boost clocks sustained. Totally up to you, ie buy a new card from a reputable etailer and return if you didn't see an improvement since you can class it as unsuitable when not buying in person but note refunds may take a fortnight depends on their T&Cs.

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Thats kind of the thing... Building a liquid cooler for the fun of it.. the project of it is what tempts me more than anything... Off the topic but you brought up pwm fans... soo totally your fault.. anyway some of my case fans are dc and some are pwm. When I set the fan profiles in the uefi and try to set the pwm fans  to operate pwm.. all the fans in the case get louder. Also even using dc the fans ramp up and down with temps mostly being really very quiet.. they do get louder when gaming.. but truth be told I don't really notice.. This brings up a  few questions. Is there some common mistake I am making, setting my fan profiles? What makes pwm so much better? And going back to the gpu.. if I survive the cooling noise right now with a nonblower gtx 970.. will the extra 35 watt tdp of the 1080 create enough more heat and dust to make it worth buying a more expensive or funkier design.. Another reason I am temped by a blower is just that I feel like it is the part would most tidily integrate into my system. I recognize I am being a little silly, but thinking about these things lowers my blodd pressure. :) I am not the guy who returns things because I made a poor decision, and yet because I recently acquired a qnix 1440p running at 96 Hz.. I will feel a deep satisfaction fully powering it.. and then I can begin to save for the next gen VR gear.. Ahhh blood pressure nice and low.  

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In BIOS (or manufacture provided software that integrates with BIOS) you typically set the fan profile either as smart mode based upon essentially the way a normal GPU fan works in automatic mode where it increase/decreases depending upon temperature. Always best to select a manual curve, slow steady curve then step past say 60C on the CPU then ramp up to 100% at 70C depending on the acoustics of your fans. Some motherboards allow control over voltages to reduce noise say from 12V to 5V/3V or if your fans came with voltage reduction cable use that if needed - better yet buy a fan controller and have total control either via USB or manual knobs like mine in my build log. Take care with how much wattage per channel you place . Otherwise you can get PWM splitters and have them working per header for that particular fan (don't use more than 3 fans per header) group identical case fans together then get another PWM header for the CPU to create separate profiles and fine tune.

In short either buy a fan controller for 3-pin fans you already own with extension if needed or splitters otherwise ensure all fans are PWM for your motherboard. No-one wants to work with fans at higher RPM than what is required versus gaming.

For PWM you need a 4-pin fan header and all fans to operate. Using a PWM fan for a motherboard with 3-pin fan header means you'll not have smart fan control and it will run full speed unless you cap voltages. If your motherboard doesn't feature enough 4-pin fan headers you can buy a 5.25-inch bay fan controller with 3-pin support for existing fans, ideally buy one with 30W per channel but may cost $50-$70 and totally worth it with USB offering easy automatic profiles. Check reviews/forums for the best ones to operate and reliability.

I only need one rear exhaust fan controller via the motherboard than a controller using Asus AI Suite II. As I mentioned any settings here dial them to the BIOS whereas in Windows this allows me to tune to certain workloads - same applies for USB controllers. Any profile made has to be customised no matter to similarities in hardware. Most software offers automatic calibration to get you started.

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Since blowers are reference designs and yes AIBs offer their own variations, it still outweighs getting a custom card that directly pushes the heat into your case. You need a very good case with good air flow, ie ATX to shift enough air quickly before it builds up and you experience reliability issues which is a QA failure of the system of a 12 hour test. There are of course known issues with reference design. If I was wanting a 1080 not based upon blower design I'd go with the EVGA 1080 Hybrid based upon the FTW and avoid Corair-based AIO's to avoid most issues, lack of room I'd buy a new case to fit it :) Btw I'm running a 144Hz panel at 1440p 120Hz and being close to 100fps is good enough for most titles maxed. If you do go VR the demands are double that for typical gaming, don't skimp on a good GPU ;)

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 First, really thank you for taking the time.

1 hour ago, SMiThaYe said:

For PWM you need a 4-pin fan header and all fans to operate. Using a PWM fan for a motherboard with 3-pin fan header means you'll not have smart fan control and it will run full speed unless you cap voltages.

   There must be a very good reason that it works this way.

    My Asus Z97i Plus uefi bios lets me make custom fan curves for every fan in my case in DC mode. In fact only the CPU cooler spins until I hit 55 degrees, which never happens during low load application. ...ok I want to honor the time you took and I do have a clearer understanding of my options and what I need to do... but I still don't understand why I can create DC custom fan curves and why PWM ones would be better. To be clear I can control the rpms of every fan whether or not they are plugged into 3 or 4 pin plugs... actually the cpu cooler is the only one plugged into a 4 pin pwm plug.. and it is the only one I can't turn all the way off.. not that I would want too. ... its possible that I am just confused, but it struck me as odd and I checked. I now do understand why trying to put the cpu cooler into PWM mode makes all the other fans spin to max (as you explained in the quote.)  

At some point.. depending on how VR progresses and we find out what it takes to really get the optimal experience, I will probably move up to mATX case so that I can run SLI.. I have been waiting for this since I was 10 years old... and that was a long time ago. I still might build a custom loop for my present rig, part of the fun would be figuring out how to fit it into the little cube.. or I will start bashing my head into the wall and move on up while its already all torn open :)

Anyway I am grateful,  For now I am probably going to wait and see if the FE issues get fixed with a driver update and how people react to other manufacturer reference designs and hopefully have a 1080 in the next couple months. If it doesn't and they are all considered junk.. the custom loop starts looking very attractive. I just want to jump into the current tech early, the price is the same whether they are just out or almost shipping the next Gen. As an aside.. I think it is strange that not more has been written about the ghost launch, the GTX 1080 has been out for a week, yet they are still impossible to aquire. Thank you, really.

 

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